*COMPLETE* Smokey's Yin-Yang (Trainwreck & SLH) Powderfeed SCROG - 600W HPS + 4 x LEDs

[atrox]

wow i have to check in more often lol, otherwise i miss so much that is going on here

great progress buddy.

They seem to rally love that led's. Mutant also looking better to me.

Sure, no problems in here...thats gonna be cool smokey. I try to be here alot earlier this time...

peace

[miminexus]

hi bro !!!!

very nice set up and effective monitoring

Peace

[Dust]

love how you settled your led man looks great and seems to be working well!!

Thanks for the news keep them coming

[g1001bh]

Nice!!!!

I am awaiting the results.

good luck

[McRadikal]

I love the lighting system and its disposition.

Good work brother

Smoke and Love

[lamsbread]

What can I say - Nice girls, LED, mycorrhizae,Hps and a well documented journal with nice replies.

Good work smokey

I certainly look forwards to more updates from you and some more nice pics.

Keep up the good work fella.

Have yourself a good grow and good luck in the cup.

Peace brother

Lams

[Smokeythabear]

Hello fellow cannabis lovers! I don't really have much to say today, I will let my journal entries do the little bit of talking and the pictures do the majority I will say that I spent some time in the grow room with the babies reading a Water/Wasterwater textbook today..it was therapeutic for me and the babies gained some more CO2 but I'm not sure if they learned much

Also, I picked up some beer yesterday that is imported from Holland and had to get a picture of a can with the ladies since they also are of Dutch origin . It was pretty decent for a lager although I'm usually an ale guy..I liked that it is brewed with mineral water from a spring, had a unique taste and carbonation

Next update with full measurements and pictures will be in a week again, I apologize I forgot to try and get pics of the SLH#2 roots, I will try in the next couple days, as I am sure I will be posting mini updates before then. I also am sorry that the chart of measurements is displayed the way it is, I hope that you are able to follow it. I've tried many different ways to copy and paste the chart from Word or Excel but it keeps coming out like this when I paste it to Strainhunters I will try and figure out a different way to post a chart.

Please enjoy the pictures, the plants already bring me a lot of happiness everyday

PEACE!

25/01/13: Day 03 Vegetation (Adjusted to reflect 14 days seedling growth - total days growth 17)

Tasks completed:

- Raised LED’s and T5’s to account for growth and to increase the light footprint as the plants grow and need to be spaced out more. Haha, I space them out more now and the plants space me out later Also, internode length is really tight and plants are really filling out so I think a little more lateral growth won’t hurt.

Environment:

Temp @ top of “canopy” light on: 25-27 °C

Night temperature: 21-22 °C

Room rH: 55 – 60 @ %

Light height from plants (T5s): 15 - 17 cm

Light height from plants (LEDs): 35 - 38 cm

26/01/13: Day 04 Vegetation

Summary & observations:

12 noon - I’m really happy with growth it is taking off nicely and super happy to see healthy, thick white roots appearing from the drainage holes of SLH#2 six days after transplant. Upper foliage and stems are growing nice and thick as well. I will check the others for roots and get pictures later. Crazy

27/01/13: Day 05 Vegetation (Total days growth 19)

Tasks completed:

- Added new CO2 pad to tent – a new one is added every 7 days w/the old ones remaining in the tent for 2 weeks to get the benefit of the last of the CO2 conversion capability before they are removed

- Pictures and measurements taken.

27/01/2013

Height

Leaf length

Leaf width

Leaf span (leaf-leaf)

Internode Length

TW#1 (+ extra additives)

15 cm

10.5 cm

5 cm

26 cm

2.5 – 3 cm

TW#2

15 cm

11.5 cm

5 cm

34 cm

2 – 2.7 cm

TW#3

14 cm

10 cm

4.5 cm

27 cm

2 – 3 cm

SLH#1 (+extra additives)

11 cm

10 cm

2.8 cm

26 cm

2 cm

SLH#2

12 cm

13 cm

3.5 cm

31 cm

2 cm

SLH#3

9.5 cm

10 cm

3.5 cm

27 cm

1.5 cm

Summary & observations:

- I’m very happy with the past weeks growth and the babies are responding really well to their environment and to the GHSC Mother’s Powerderfeed.

- The smell of both strains is already very noticeable as soon as you are near the plants. It is surprising to me and the strongest smelling vegetative plants I have yet grown by far. The SLH is REALLY skunky..very promising and it makes me laugh and smile.

[Gfarmer]

awsome start bro the plant's are such a nice green color looking great

[Bam-Bhole]

So true, you polished them to shine ? Excellent work my friend.

[Dust]

great looking girls man, i agree with everyone, great leaf look and girls in general all looks good anyway, gonna be another rocking journal

Thanks for the news man keep us updated!

[Jimmy]

Nice girls you have there . Looks very clean and healthy. Keep it up bro.

Peace & Smoke

Brother Jimmy

[Fran.gh]

Wow, man your plants are looking beatiful.

Really healthy plants man.

Congratz.

[miminexus]

hi,

nice picture the plant grows very well and beautiful color

Peace

[Smokeythabear]

Hey everyone, thanks for taking the time to check out the little ones.

I know they are much more exciting at this stage (without flowers) to myself than to bud porn lovers, but I'm happy that you are able to appreciate their health The GHSC Mother's PF continues to prove itself to be an excellent nutrient, and I would say this is my best start so far out of my 3 grows with a little credit going to some learning and tweaking but much of the credit going to the feed I would say

I am noticing a tiny bit of yellowing on the edge of a few of the leaf tips of the TW's, not burnt, still soft, just a bit yellow. Since the SLH's are free from this, and I noticed an improvement in TW#2 which received a feeding a day before the other TW's, I'm going to theorize that they are just wanting a bit more nitrogen. Also leading me towards this conclusion is that the cotyledons on the TW's all went yellow and died as it appears the nitrogen was drawn from them as the plants required more. Also, partly thanks to the CO2 pads I think, the leaves are fairly large and growth is rapid so I can see the TW's wanting a bit more (N). I will keep an eye on them and increase the feed next water most likely.

@ Tokage - I did read a bit out loud to them, but I think they prefer listening to the music I have playing for them during lights on more than learning about the legal responsibilities of a drinking water operator The beer was pretty nice for a European style lager, what made it refreshing was that it's brewed using mineral spring water. We have some local beers brewed like this and the water definitely makes a difference. I've tried Amstel, we get it here as well, but it has been awhile and I forget how it tastes Hell I forget what was for dinner yesterday lol

Ok so next update should be Sunday, Feb. 3rd, and I think we will see some fairly nice growth out of both strains. Soon it will be time to select the top 4 plants to go into the 23 L pots and into the scrog..I think it will be fun to get some input from all of you as to which plants you wish to see move on into the tent and eventually into flowering

ONE LAST THING Can anyone point me to where I can find info on how to upload video clips to StrainH.? Info like format, requirements etc..thanks!!

I hope everyone is having a good week..peace friends!

EDIT: After more research the slight leaf problem isn't nitrogen, I think it may be a minor magnesium deficiency. I've read numerous places that cannabis plants grown under LED require more magnesium and calcium. I now think it is either this or light bleaching, but at 33- 38 cm's, and the fact that they have been closer when younger without issues, I'm leaning towards the magnesium.

[Smokeythabear]

While I'm mentioning magnesium deficiencies, here is a really good article from Maximum Yield magazine (awesome Canadian growing magazine that caters to growers of all types of plants but with tons of companies that sell to cannabis growers) that I retrieved here from another forum for anyone that wants to read about the importance of calcium and magnesium..http://forums.cannabisculture.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1576769

And here is the article itself..PEACE!

Calcium and Magnesium: Beyond the Obvious

by Richard Gellert

Introduction

Calcium and magnesium are common inputs in everyone’s garden. They are the building blocks and catalysts that allow plants to flourish. They are found in the soil and in plant food and in tap water, with some well sources having extreme amounts. Most experienced gardeners tend to supplement their feed regimen with extra calcium and magnesium (cal-mag), especially those with hydroponic gardens.

Common knowledge has it is that cal-mag is pretty straight forward, that there is not much variation between the different kinds on the market or in your tap water. But is all cal-mag created equal? Would some forms of these minerals perform better than others? What forms are leading nutrient manufacturers using? How can you tell if you have a deficiency? What leads to these deficiencies and most importantly how can you avoid them? These are just some of the questions this article will attempt to answer. I will help refine your knowledge of these important components in your garden so they can help you achieve the highest quality and maximum yields of your favorite fruits and veggies.

Cal-Mag’s Key Role in the Garden

Calcium, an essential part of the plant’s cell wall structure, improves the absorption of other nutrients by the roots and their translocation within the plant. It activates a number of plant growth-regulating enzyme systems; helps convert nitrate-nitrogen into forms needed for protein formation; and contributes to improved disease resistance.

Calcium is an intracellular messenger as well and can send a signal from one cell to another telling other cells how to react or what to do. It also provides for the transport and retention of many other elements. Calcium, magnesium and potassium live in a delicate balance within plants. Too much of one will inhibit the other two. Finally, calcium is a co-factor in many enzymatic reactions. Its presence is needed to turn an enzyme on or off and allow it to catalyze a reaction.

Magnesium is part of the chlorophyll in all plants. Magnesium is the central core of the chlorophyll molecule in green plant tissue and essential for photosynthesis. Thus, if magnesium is deficient, the shortage of chlorophyll results in poor and stunted plant growth.

Magnesium also helps to activate specific enzyme systems. Enzymes are complex substances that build, modify or break down compounds as part of a plant’s normal metabolism.

Most growers incorporate higher levels of cal-mag (around 50 to 200ppm) during the first two weeks of bloom. This is when the plant takes up a higher concentration of calcium and magnesium to help facilitate the rapid division of cells, changing the plant from a vegetative process to a reproductive process. Also, during main flower set four to six weeks into the flowering process, additional cal-mag is required.

Roy Gomez, owner of Humboldt Nutrients, had a very specific viewpoint about supplementing extra calcium. “I believe that calcium should be supplemented in a feeding regimen in the early vegetative and early bloom stages. As young children, we are told to consume milk as a calcium supplement for strengthening bone density and structure. Young plants should also receive this calcium supplement to help their stock, density and plant structure.”

The Different Forms

Calcium and magnesium are found in most plant nutrients. They are also available combined into one bottle as a supplement. Some companies go one step further and separate the two giving one the ability to really dial in the perfect feed recipe. The ratio of calcium to magnesium can vary and be very specific to a particular type of plant.

Calcium and magnesium are also the most abundant minerals in tap water. The majority of the PPM, or EC reading, you obtain from a measuring device is cal-mag. The most typical form of these minerals in your untreated water is calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate. Unfortunately, contrary to popular belief, these forms are virtually unusable by plants, especially fast growing plants. The molecules of these compounds are far too large and immobile to be absorbed by the roots and transported to where the plant needs them. Relying on the cal-mag in tap water can lead to many problems which we will discuss later in this article.

Nutrient manufacturers use different forms of cal-mag and base their decision on what they feel delivers the most benefits to the type of plants they have targeted with their plant food and supplements. Below are a few examples of calcium and magnesium compounds used by nutrient manufactures:

* Calcium Nitrate

* Calcium Carbonate

* Calcium Chloride

* Calcium Gluconate

* Calcium Proteinate

* Calcium Acetate

* Magnesium Nitrate

* Magnesium Carbonate

Beyond the various compounds of these two minerals there are chelators which are used to make the cal-mag more readily available. There are vast differences in what manufacturers use to chelate their cal-mag. Most typical synthetic chelators are EDTA, DPTA and EDDHA and are classified as poly-amino carboxylic acids. Naturals chelates are also used and include humic and fulvic acid, organic amino acids or a micro-organism based chelation process, which harnesses the power of nature’s smallest creatures to “fix” plant food for easy uptake.

Calcium is always used as CA2+ within plants, but how it gets into the plant is a whole other story. Each of the various forms of calcium each has different absorption co-efficients. Each form of calcium is absorbed into the cell at different rates and requires a different method for the cell to take it in. Each method requires more or less energy for the cell to exert to do so. Some highly chelated forms of cal-mag can enter the plant’s phospholipid membrane through osmosis. The quicker the cal-mag can be absorbed, the more efficiently the plant can make use of these compounds, thus facilitating lightning fast growth and cell division.

Calcium Deficiencies

Calcium deficiency symptoms appear initially as generally stunted plant growth. Necrotic (dead) leaf margins on young leaves or necrosis around the base of the leaves is very common. In its advanced stage it can eventual lead to death of the terminal buds and root tips. Generally the new growth of the plant is affected first. The mature leaves may be affected if the problem persists. Cupping of mature leaves is a tell tale sign of a calcium deficiency.

Classic symptoms of a calcium deficiency include blossom-end rot of tomato (death of the end part of the fruits), tip burn of lettuce, blackheart of celery and death of the growing regions in many plants. All these symptoms show soft, dead necrotic tissue at rapidly growing areas.

Generally, a calcium deficiency is related to poor translocation of calcium to the tissue rather than a low external supply of calcium. Calcium has a very low mobility in plants which makes this one of the most common problems in a garden. Calcium may be available externally but it is in the wrong form for the plant to absorb readily.

Magnesium Deficiencies

Deficiencies typically occur with the middle or lower leaves. The most common symptoms are interveinal chlorosis or yellowing between leaf veins, which stay green, giving a marbled appearance. Necrosis, or death, can develop in the highly chlorotic tissue. The symptoms generally start with mottled chlorotic areas developing in the interveinal tissue and spreads to large dead spots. This begins with older leaves and spreads to younger growth.

Magnesium deficiencies are usually confused with a virus, or natural aging in the case of tomato plants. In its advanced form, a magnesium deficiency may superficially resemble a potassium deficiency. The tell tale sign of a magnesium deficiency is the interveinal chlorosis produces a raised puckered surface, with the top of the puckers progressively going from chlorotic to necrotic tissue. Other symptoms of this deficiency are fruits and vegetables tend to be small and woody while flowers never develop to their full potential.

Roy Gomez understands the important role of magnesium and states, “As aging adults, it is not uncommon for people to become magnesium deficient. There are multiple sources of magnesium supplements in the health food market. I believe that magnesium is an important element to supplement in an aging plants life. Certain plants consume large amounts of magnesium during the early and late flowering stages. If magnesium deficiencies occur in plants, it causes late-season yellowing in leaf veins and older leaves.”

How Cal-Mag Deficiencies Occur

The most common cause of calcium and magnesium deficiencies is lockout. When there is too much cal-mag already in the untreated source water being used as the base to the nutrient formula it can cause the good cal-mag in the plant food to become unavailable. Think about it this way - the cal-mag in your tap water has a large molecular structure and is very immobile in that form. These molecules try to go through your roots and up into the plant where they can be used. The molecules are too large to be absorbed efficiently and end up accumulating on the outside of the roots. This causes a road block that can lock out the good forms of cal-mag you are trying to feed them. Other key components of the nutrient formula can also be locked out and the problems escalate until your plants appear to be stunted and yellow and growth crawls to a halt.

There are ways to mitigate this problem. Fulvic and humic acid, as well as living beneficial biology, can help break down the relatively immobile cal-mag in your tap water and allow it to become more available to the plants. This process takes time and is not guaranteed to free up all the cal-mag in an efficient manner. The whole idea behind hydroponics is to minimize your time and maximize your harvests. There is no time to wait around for the cal-mag to be made available. What the plants need is cal-mag that they can readily absorb and use immediately.

Another way to acquire deficiencies is by not adding enough cal-mag to your nutrient formula when using purified water. Reverse Osmosis gives you the purest water possible and so you have to add the correct amount of cal-mag to ensure you have the proper feed solution. The best way to start your nutrient formula is to begin with purified water, add 50 to 250ppm cal-mag, and then add your additional macro- and micronutrients. The amount of cal-mag you add depends on the variety of plants, what stage in their life they are in, and the media you are using.

Certain growing media, such as coco coir, requires additional calcium due its cation exchange capacity properties. Growing in coco requires additional calcium, especially in the first few weeks of the plants life.

Best Practices to Avoid Problems

The most ideal way to avoid deficiencies is by starting with a base of purified water. That way you are not guessing how much cal-mag you have and you won’t be as susceptible to lock out problems. Reverse osmosis technology removes 95 to 99 per cent of all contaminants and the most efficient method to rid your tap water of the majority of cal-mag and other PPMs.

After having the cleanest base available you want to select cal-mag that is formulated specifically for horticulture. Going beyond this, look for labels that list several different sources or compounds of cal-mag and ensure that they have been chelated to make them that much more available to your plants. If growing organically, it is paramount that you select cal-mag supplements that have been chelated naturally with amino acids or living biology. By using these highly absorbable forms of cal-mag you are helping to ensure the healthiest and quickest growing plants.

Some nutrient manufacturers address the excessive cal-mag in tap water by marketing hard water formulas.

“Although a grower can use a hard water formula for his or her plants, it doesn’t mean they should,” said Brantley Pierce of Green Coast Hydroponics. “In many relations, people are the same as plants - what you put in is what you get out. We can feed ourselves fast food everyday to become full, but it doesn’t mean that is the best choice for living. Starting with R.O. water and building a quality nutrient profile from scratch is like home cooking. It takes more preparation and time but the results equal a higher quality of life.”

Finally, there are some brands of cal-mag that have been super chelated with living biology and are readily available to your plants. These types of cal-mag can actually be foliar sprayed on the leaves and absorbed in a matter of hours. Results can be seen amazingly fast and deficiency problems can be corrected in a matter of days.

In conclusion, it is clear that calcium and magnesium play significant roles in everyone’s garden. Having the proper forms and correct amounts will determine the final outcome of your harvest. Starting with a base of purified water and supplementing the feed formula with specific, very usable forms of cal-mag will ensure healthy and happy harvests. Pure water is the platform for continued success in the garden

[Smokeythabear]

DAY 12 OF VEGETATION (26 DAYS SINCE SPROUTING)

HELLO FRIENDS!!

It is time for the weekly update with journal posts from all week long for those who want info and numbers, and pictures for those who couldn't care to read I hope you enjoy the pictures of them LST'd and bent over (Tokage hehehe)..I have to say..they were little sluts and bent over easier than my ex-wife..SHHHH!! don't tell em I said that ..besides my ex-wife is a terrible thing to compare such beautiful, giving (soon to be) ladies

Tomorrow is transplant time!!..and time to decide who will move forward into the 23 L pots and very soon to be scrogged If anyone has any input as to which they want to see move to the finals so to speak..please feel free to speak up. So far I'm leaning towards TW's 1 & 2..and SLH's 1 & 2..SLH#3 is sooo nice and green but she is just not as big (height, leaf size, main-stem etc.) and I don't think has the genetic potential of SLH#1. For the scrog I would like a plant that is going to stretch out a bit and keep up with the rest. BUT if anyone else thinks I should keep either TW#3 or SLH#3 and get rid of another plant please let me know and why

Tomorrow is also time to purchase my 4th and final (for now lol) LED panel to use for secondary lighting with the 600W HPS. Now every plant will have an LED bathing it in light as well as the main 600W

Ok..anything else will be explained by my journal entries and the pictures. I know I've mentioned the impressive roots a few times, I will get pictures at transplant tomorrow It is pretty cool to compare the group picture from 2 days ago right after I LST'd them all with the group shot of them all today. I played around with the White settings on my camera and came out with a cool group shot that has a blueish hue..thought someone else might enjoy it.

I couldn't be happier with the growth..but now it's time to flush em out a little with the transplant tomorrow and get that EC run-off down and into fresh media.

Hope everyone has a nice chill week ahead!!

PEACE!

28/01/13: Day 06 Vegetation

Tasks completed:

- Topped up TW#2 with promix/grodan media mixture - didn't add enough initially when transplanting

- Already noticed some roots coming out of various pot drainage holes and all plants have visible roots that have already reached the bottom of the pots

Watered TW#2, TW#3, SLH#2 (Powderfeed plants) w/ 1 L each r/o water +

Botanicare Cal Mag Plus (required w/ r/o water) @ 1.2 mL/L x 2 L = 2 mL EC: 0.62

DNF Enhance pine oil (to help protect against fungi/pathogens) @ 1.5 mL/L x 2 L = 3 mL EC: 0.08

GHSC Mother’s Powderfeed @ 0.45 g/L x 2 L = 0.8 g EC: 0.74

Total EC: 1.44 pH: 5.7 Temperature: 18°C

29/01/13: Day 07 Vegetation – Week 1 complete

Tasks completed:

Watered TW#1 & SLH#1 (Powderfeed +extra additives) w/1 L each r/o water +

Botanicare Cal Mag Plus (required w/ r/o water) @ 1.2 mL/L x 2 L = 2.5 mL EC: 0.62

DNF Enhance pine oil (to help protect against fungi/pathogens) @ 1.5 mL/L x 2 L = 3 mL EC: 0.08

Advanced Nutrients B-52 @ 1 mL/L x 2 L =2 mL EC: 0.10

GHSC Mother’s Powderfeed @ 0.45 g/L x 1L = 0.8 g EC: 0.77

Total EC: 1.56 pH: 5.7 Temperature: 18°C

Watered SLH#3 (Powderfeed plant) w/ 1 L r/o water +

Botanicare Cal Mag Plus (required w/ r/o water) @ 1.2 mL/L x 1 L = 1.2 mL EC: 0.60

DNF Enhance pine oil (to protect against fungi/pathogens) @ 1.5 mL/L x 1 L = 1.5 mL EC: 0.08

GHSC Mother’s Powderfeed @ 0.4 g/L x 1 L = 0.4 g EC: 0.72

Total EC: 1.40 pH: 5.7 Temperature: 18°C

31/01/13 - Day 09 Vegetation

Tasks completed:

Watered TW#2, TW#3, SLH#2 (Powderfeed plants) w/ 1 L each r/o water +

Botanicare Cal Mag Plus (required w/ r/o water) @ 1.65 mL/L x 3 L = 5 mL EC: 0.76

GHSC Mother’s Powderfeed @ 0.5 g/L x 3 L = 1.5 g EC: 0.9

Total EC: 1.66 pH: 5.8 Temperature: 20°C

01/02/13 - Day 10 Vegetation (24 days since sprout)

Tasks completed:

- LST’d main-stems of all plants. I can see why both SLH and TW are good strains to scrog, the stems are nice and flexible and bend really nicely even though they are getting thick and I didn’t do any pre-bending to get them ready.

Watered TW#1 & SLH#1 (Powderfeed +extra additives) w/1 L each r/o water +

Botanicare Cal Mag Plus (required w/ r/o water) @ 1.65 mL/L x 2L = 3.3 mL EC: 0.77

Advanced Nutrients B-52 @ 1.25 mL/L x 2 L =2.5 mL EC: 0.17

GHSC Mother’s Powderfeed @ 0.45 g/L x 2L = 0.9 g EC: 0.78

Potassium silicate @ 0.125 mL/L x 2 L = 0.25 mL EC: 0.03

Total EC: 1.75 pH: 5.7 Temperature: 19°C

Watered SLH#3 (Powderfeed plants) w/ 1 L each r/o water +

Botanicare Cal Mag Plus (required w/ r/o water) @ 1.25 mL/L x 1 L = 1.25 mL EC: 0.65

GHSC Mother’s Powderfeed @ 0.4 g/L x 1 L = 1.5 g EC: 0.7

Total EC: 1.37 pH: 5.9 Temperature: 19°C

** She is the smallest of all the plants and VERY green right now – wanted to give her a bit lighter feed than the rest.

Summary & observations:

- Woke up this morning to find the 34 L humidifier (purchased a month ago) with the fan running but hadn’t been humidifying all night (tanks were pretty much still full) and the humidity had dropped to 42% overnight. I brought it to the store and exchanged it for a new one and humidity is back up to 58 - 60%. This one seems to do a better job at keeping conditions steady..1^st one must have been all fucked up.

- Roots coming through the hydroclay and showing through the drainage holes are thick, very white, and full of fuzzy feeder- root hairs. I’m very happy with the micorrhizae/trichoderma root inoculant. Pretty sure I’ve mentioned that a few times It has proven itself both grows, this grow though (unlike the autoflowers) I will be able to give the plants a second inoculation upon transplanting up to the 23 L pots in probably a week or so.

02/02/13

Tasks completed:

- Re-bent & tied mainstems one internode up, and trained fan leaves to tuck underneath quick growing laterals competing to be the main-stem one internode up – plants look good from LST

Environment

Temp @ top of “canopy” light on: 26 - 27 °C

Night temperature: 22 °C

Room rH: 55 – 60 @ %

Light height from plants (T5s): 15 - 17 cm

Light height from plants (LEDs): 33 - 38 cm

03/02/13 - Day 12 Vegetation (26 days since sprouting)

Tasks completed:

- Bent, re-tied and trained plants

- Added new CO2 producing pad

- Took pictures

Watered TW#2, TW#3, SLH#2 (Powderfeed plants) w/ 1 L each r/o water +

Botanicare Cal Mag Plus (required w/ r/o water) @ 1.65 mL/L x 3 L = 5 mL EC: 0.75

DNF Enhance pine oil (protects against fungi/pathogens) @ 1.5 mL/L x 3 L = 4.5 mL EC: 0.06

GHSC Mother’s Powderfeed @ 0.6 g/L x 3 L = 1.5 g EC: 0.97

Total EC: 1.78 pH: 5.9 Temperature: 20°C

Run-off pH & EC:

TW#2: EC: 2.55 pH: 6.1

TW#3: EC: 2.42 pH: 6.1

SLH#2: EC: 2.8 pH: 6.1

Summary & observations:

- Run-off EC’s are getting high already but pH is acceptable – tomorrow they will get a much more mild solution run through them for transplant and the new media will be fresh from nutrient salt build up. Explains why the SLH#2 is so damn green.

- Roots are showing like crazy and I want to give them lots of root room so tomorrow is transplant day. A happy and sad day as 2 of the 6 plants are going to an early grave with the top 4 going into the 23 L pots and will be scrogged. I will keep the 2 “dumpster babies” until I am sure the transplants take. I would hate to have a problem and have just thrown away 2 good plants

[miminexus]

hi,

your plants are healthy I watch because are very promising and slh

Peace

[Mr.X]

Very nice grow, great color, keep up the good job!!

Cheers!!

[Dust]

Yop man thanks for the news girls are still growing strong in there

They are gonna love the repoting and should have a nice boost afterit As for the plant choice i can't say, it's your girls and you see them grow in live so i think you're the most able to judge wich one will rock for you under the net

Keep the nice pics coming man and girls growing

have a good grow

[Smokeythabear]

hi,

your plants are healthy I watch because are very promising and slh

Peace

Thanks bro..I hope they continue to be promising

Very nice grow, great color, keep up the good job!!

Cheers!!

Mr. X, as an admirer of your beautifully stunning grows and photography skills I am honored and happy that you stopped by and enjoyed the grow, thank you :D

Yop man thanks for the news girls are still growing strong in there

They are gonna love the repoting and should have a nice boost afterit As for the plant choice i can't say, it's your girls and you see them grow in live so i think you're the most able to judge wich one will rock for you under the net

Keep the nice pics coming man and girls growing

have a good grow

Hey Dust thanks man..they did not slow down at all after repotting and showed nice growth still in the 24 hrs after transplant. As you predicted it has given them a boost and by the looks of the roots I got them out just in time! I will have an update and pictures later this evening

Hey Smokey,

nice Thread !! very clean and organized...promising start

Q.: What are u feeding at the moment ? Only PF or are u adding anything else yet ?

In my understanding, the difference could only be seen with like 10 clones, 5 PF and 5 PF + extra.

With Seeds, the Phenoes can be so different that making a point if or if not any Extra is needed or not is voided.

Calcium & Magnesium

Usually a real pain & threat ! Usually you have to buy EXTRA this and EXTRA that cause most vendors KNOW EXACTLY that your plants will need some more to look healthy but just leave it out by purpose so they can sell u an EXTRA which, without any doubt, will make your plants look even greater.

I used Dolomite Powder ( 5kg for 5 € )in my soil days ( before PF !!! ) to enrich the soil but u can easily overdo it and block others out.

These days I lean back, laugh about people mixing 5 bottles Basics and 3 Bottles EXTRAs for a hugh amount of money with super extra work and care and

Milliliter Injections into the barrel to match EC... Well I use PF, role one up and be done in 2 Minutes without guesswork, without any Cal-Mg efs, just plain

easy

Fim

Hi FIM, thanks for taking the time to check things out, the nice words and give me something to think about What you say makes complete sense about needing 10 clones of a strain to do a true, proper comparison and a different pheno could account for more yield easily. What I'm looking for is the resin, potency, flavor differences as well..and they too could all come from genetics & phenos. That said, your suggestions had crossed my mind and I've decided it would not be fair to call it a comparison and I will not be doing a PF vs. PF + additives. I'm going to do PF + select additives for all of the plants making mixing nutrients easier and not creating a comparison that really isn't that fair as you've mentioned :) So far all I've been adding some DNF Enhance pine oil additive and Advanced Nutrients B-52 to the additives plants.

I know I know..keep it simple is supposed to be the key and I also do agree that keeping it simple is awesome, and the PF does it very very well And I also believe that amazing, potent, and high yielding cannabis can be grown using just the PF as it has everything the plant needs. BUT..there are certain additives that I think can be added that are address specific areas of plant growth and development that can be added to bump them up just a little more lol. Example, B-52 adds b-vitamins, Enhance pine oil protects the plants from environmental stress and pathogens..two things that the PF doesn't add. Will the plants necessarily suffer and or be shit if I didn't use them? No..but I do believe they are able to add just a little more to help ensure a healthy (most important to me..if they get sick they are no good to me period) and potent harvest. Ya I should change my name to Smokeythachemist I think that there is room for both kinds of growers that want to use the PF..the lazy and the crazy who like to play around and don't mind the wife yelling when you bring something new home to try LOL..jokes ..I've seen you're work you're definitely not lazy and I do respect what you're sayin bro, I just enjoy tinkering..and I will be rollin one...just a few mins behind ya lol

Although,I gotta tell ya because I'm using r/o water I do NEED the Cal Mag plus as the PF doesn't have any calcium in the elements and not enough magnesium to cover for the r/o water having none. After all the reading I've done about the huge difference between the non- availability of Calcium and Magnesium in tap water compared to supplementing it with a more readily available forms of the elements, I would still say that making your own base water (r/o + cal mag) is the better way to go and would possibly solve some plant health issues that crop up for some as well as creating better yield potential. Just my thoughts

OK..UPDATE LATER TONIGHT WITH TRANSPLANT PICS..OR EARLY TOMORROW..LADIES ARE LOVING THERE NEW POTS !! OH and was at a new hydro store in town today and picked up some Advanced nutrients Sensizym enzyme formula..after doing quite a bit of research about enzymes and this product in particular I couldn't hold back on trying it any longer

PEACE !

[Smokeythabear]

Ok first I have to apologize that my update is a few days late But I hope better late than never!

I am still having a slight issue with yellowing of a few leaf tips of the one trainwreck as you will see in the pictures and if anyone has any insight I would like to hear it..thanks! The tips are a yellow/light lime green colour and not dry and crispy but still moist and flexible..they look like they are lacking chlorophyll. As well, the newer growth does not seem to be suffering from it so far. Since she was running with the highest input EC of the group I'm wondering if I didn't overfeed her and lock out the magnesium possibly? the other Trainwrecks suffered from this a little as well but not nearly as much as she has. Her growth does not seem to be suffering but it is still a concern. Again any thoughts are very welcome

I hope everyone is well and I hope you enjoy the pictures, I know there are a ton of them but I have a hard time deciding which ones I like best If you look at the first group picture it was taken right after the transplant, the next group picture was taken a few hours ago about 68 hrs after transplanting for comparison.

PEACE

04/02/13

- Completed transplant of TW’s #1 as well as SLH’s #1 & #2. It was a tough decision between SLH #1 & #3. But the size (especially the fairly big difference in height and main-stem diameter) indicates what I believe to be potential from the SLH#1 and although #3 was greener and arguably healthier in a sense, I chose the plant that I believe has more potential.

- Raised LEDS to 40 cm to increase light footprint

Media preparation for transplant:

Step 1 – Soaked Grodan™ rockwool Growchunks (BIGGER THAN GROWCUBES) for 30 mins in r/o water +

Cal Mag Plus @ 1.5 mL/L x 40 L = 60 mL (EC 0.62)

GHSC Mother’s PF @ 0.3 g/L x 40 L = 12 g (EC 0.52)

pH @ 5.8 Total EC: 1.15

Step 2 – Soaked Hydrotron clay pellets in r/o water +

Cal Mag Plus @ 1 mL/L

pH @ 5.5 EC: 0.55

and agitated a few times to wash thoroughly and clean sediment from pellets then drained

Step 3 – Wetted the dry Pro-mix HP by mixing it 50/50 with the pre-soaked Growchunks

Step 4- Lined the bottom of the 23 L pots with a nice layer of Hydrotron clay pellets

Step 5 - Filled the pots with soiless /Growchunk mix leaving room for plants and a layer of Hydrotron

Step 6 - Sprinkled ¼ tsp as per directions of Botannicare ZHO root inoculant (mychorrizae, trichoderma, amino acid) in circular area where plant was to be placed

Step 7 - Placed plant in pot on top of sprinkled ZHO and filled in with Promix/growcube mix then topped with layer of hydrotron

Step 8 – Watered around plant root ball with nutrient mix

Cal-Mag Plus @ 1.25 mL/L x 10 L = 12.5 mL (EC 0.54)

Advanced Nutrients B-52 (to help with transplant shock) @ 1.25 mL/L (EC 0.18)

pH @ 5.8 Total EC: 0.72 Temperature: 18°C

Summary & observations:

- By the root mass that developed, and the fact that the growth seemed to slow down for about 48 hrs before the transplant tells me that I should have transplanted them earlier. I could see that there were lots of roots but I had no idea the extent of the root ball until I started pulling them from the pots. I don’t believe they were root bound exactly but I hope I didn’t slow them down too much, next time I will transplant much sooner. The ZHO root inoculant definitely seems to work well.

-It was a tough decision between SLH #1 & #3 to move into the 23 L’s, but the size (especially the fairly big difference in height and main-stem diameter) indicates what I believe to be potential from the SLH#1 and although #3 was greener and arguably healthier in a sense, I chose the plant that I believe has more potential.

- Been waiting on new Glow Panel 45 LED’s to come into the hydro store – the company who makes them was waiting for components to be able to build and ship from the factory. I need 3 in total – 2 to replace the 2 with bulb issues and a 4^th to round out the supplementary lighting in the tent. The owner is hoping they will be in tomorrow, so am I.

07/02/13: 3 days since transplant

Summary & observations:

- Plants are doing well in the new pots and have survived the transplant well. Pots are still very heavy and I probably won’t need to water them for another 3 or 4 days I’m guessing.

- Still waiting on the LEDs to come in so I can add a 4^th and replace 2 of the ones I have that have a few diode issues with new ones. Not overly happy since I really wanted to have an LED above each plant by now but such is life 11/02/13 is the new date they are supposed to be in.

- I’m going to add the 600 W HPS by the weekend since I don’t yet have the 4^th LED and the LED’s seem to growing big leaves with very short internodes and I don’t think a little stretching will hurt them. Also, the Hortilux™ Super HPS bulbs have a bit more blue ..website says “Provides 25% more energy than competitive brands in Violet, Blue and Green” so that should help keep them from stretching too much.

- I need to take time to LST the main-stems again, right now I just keep bending them back down everytime I'm down there..about 6 times a day lol. I can see the screen going into the tent soon too, once I do some modifications to it Also need to get the intake fan and hose hooked up to cool things and get proper air exchange in the tent.

- Have turned down the humidifier to almost off since the plants are now producing enough humidity through transpiration to keep the humidity at about 60% with the humidifier kicking onto low every once and awhile. Again the new one keeps rH very steady.

[Gfarmer]

hey smokey!!!! the plant's are looking great nice root shot's are well, i read what you were saying about the trainwreck and i wanted to mention that i too had problem's with the absorption of magnesium and calcium with that strain probably caused by lock out or what but in the end it didn't really end up causing much damage to the growth just some unsightly discoloration and spot's on the leaf's .

im not sure how i fixed it tho because i did a bunch of different small thing's until i saw progress, one of the main one's was rasing the ph slightly from 5.7 too 6.0 but i am unsure if that did the trick but shortlyd after the switch the yellowing and brown spot's stopped ad the yellowing started turned green again, but i also did a flush and adjusted the ph of the medium as well as raising the ph of the water. anyway's i hoe that helped alittle bit i wish i could help more but im new to using nutrient's other then just base nutrient's so i don't have allot of experiences with these problem's but the plant's look great so i have no doubt that they will overcome this problem.

[kalisilvermist]

Looking really good smokey !!

[miminexus]

hi,

as usual nice update,you take good care of a lot of work, it promises

I do not think too much fertilizer for yellow spots potassium can be enough to eat potassium. a little more ph can be maybe

not very serious and I think you will find a solution

Peace

[Dust]

great update once again man thanks for keeping us aware, even with 1 day late

Girls are looking very nice as always, deep green and healthy leaves, the leaf you show on the end from the TW i guess with the yellowing is strage indeed the way it spreads must have been started for a while to be like this no? i would have said a little lockout to probably, maybe with the new pots and medium it will go away and fade otherwisemaybe a little flush to clean the soil and get it back on average doses of nutes to see how it goes, and maybe increas little PH like greeno stated and see what happens..

Anyway they will not dies till next week so we'll see

Have a good grow keep us updated!