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primitive survival

unhappy plant

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I would need help on something .I struggle to really give my plant exactly what it need. Right now I am in third week in flowering and this is my feeding schedure :
Fertilizer : General Hydroponique flora series ( SOIL )
supplement : Floraliscious, flora blend (vegetation ), diamond nectar
PH 6.3
Filtred water (zero filter)

- Feeding : 1 / 1 / 1.5 to 2 teaspoon a gallon - CAL MAG 300 PPM - total PPM : 800 to 1000

- Watering : Cal mag 350 ppm

Watering with supplement : 1 tea spoon floraliscious, 1/2 tea spoon Diamond Nectar, Cal mag 300 PPM

So yeah ... are these number realistic ? I got Big Bang / El Nino / and other small indica dominant plant.

for many weeks I tought it was Nitrogen defiency but ... maybe it is the opposite, the plant do not seems to need Nitrogen at this stage ???




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Hello friend, 



Definitely something fails. He seems to have painted magnesium / calcium, but it is difficult to know why. 


The damage is no longer repairable, but it can prevent PROPAGE. I would use root washing to remove any excess salts and water with fertilizer after flowering (rich in pk), with pH 6.5, only fertilize lightly, not be exceeded. That may eliminate the problem and continue to make good flowering.

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Did that, will see what the result are but I am afraid i went to far with these plants unfortunately I will finish them fast so I can replace them with new plants.
I am reading in many many place to give something like : 0 - 2 - 3to4     tea spoon per gallon with General Hydroponic in soil, sound like a lot to me ?

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 to me the brown red spots look like calcium deficiency and as you said you havent gave it any calcium for many many weeks!! it seems most likely cause.  calcium def shows up in the younger and faster growing parts of plant like you have and only very rarely on the older leafs as they have accumulated it.


with P def the patches of brown dont look so sharp and bright in contrast, usually more like a spill of grey brown that spreads without sharp contrasted border and make the leaf crispy as it spreads,  and it should show on larger leafs of the plant before the top growth


the calcium and magnesium are just as important for the plant as N P or K even in the last stage of its life, if it doesnt get cal and mg at all it cant use up rest of the nutrients either giving you all sort of trouble not just cal def.


you should never cut it down from feed completely specially not at start of flowering when it needs it most, even when people flush or stop feeding at the last weeks the water should have just enough cal, mg and other immobile nutrients so the plant can use up the reserves of the mobile nutrients, immobile nutrients are just that immobile meaning the plant cant use reserved immobile nutrients in other parts of the plant but the mobile ones can be moved and used. if cal is cut down completely the plant cant use up anything else either and becomes susceptible to all kinds of plant diseases also like bud rot/grey mold as the cell walls get weak

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in the last month I have been using zero filter, briging ppm down to 10. so I was adding 200 PPM per feeding and watering, to have a water at 200 PPM with good balanced cal mag in it. Now in the last weeks, filters are dead and I did not get any new one so I am using store bought 5 gallon of water, with a PPM of 115, 2% calcium in it. So with this water, how much CAL MAG I add ?

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I use tap water, I do not filter because it did contain minerals and calcium salts, for use vinegar to lower the pH to 6.40 to 6.50 pH. 

I've also had the same problem. When they are in bloom need more PK and N to miss 2-3 weeks to the end of flowering, the plant is developing well must follow the evolution of dosage of nutrients. 

What I did was a flush and again by nutrients, half dose at first irrigation, and in the second the serta dose for the age of the plant and in the third a little more watering PK, and then after doing normal waterings following doses . 


I also growing in soil, use BioBizz Grow BioBizz & Blom, and a little honey to miss three weeks to the end of flowering, these three weeks just take the honey in the first 2, and third flush. 


When I see the honey causes the smell and taste becomes sweeter

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KATHMANDU, after adding you biobizz nutes to your water do you pH it to 6.4-6.5 before you give it to your plants because I have seen many other journals were people who have been growing in soil using biobizz nutes have said they never check there pH.

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