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Green House Kush Test compared against Kaia Kush, each comparing Short Powder Feeding against Advanced Hydroponics Nutrients by Cannabissapean


Cannabissapean
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21 Nov 2015

OK, the LST'd Girls have partially lifted their LST barbells.  Time to LST them the other way.  Yes, I torture my Girls early.Image000.jpg

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The KK 2 AH seems to be exhibitting stress from being unable to throw off its hat - turning a bit yellow.  So I removed the seed pod.  I then applied a little LST to this plant too, enabling the new leaves to see a bit more of the light.

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22 Nov 2015

I removed their barbells on one side, bent them the other way, and re-applied the barbells on the other side.  I let them sit under another day's lighting and feeding cycle. Image011.jpg

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The small KK 2 AH seemed to respond to the light, so I removed its weight to see if it would start to reach for the light.Image013.jpg

 

I lost patience with the second GH Kush seed in cup GHK 4 AH, so I investigated and discovered that it had also died.  So, I started another replacement GH Kush seed, this time in the paper towel again with distilled water.

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23 Nov 2015

a few more pics of the Girls under the second stress Position.Image019.jpg

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Both the KK's had struggled to throw off the seed pod, and both experienced a bit of baby-leaf folding.Image033.jpg

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The replacement seed for GHK 4 AH is showing a tail.  Will wait til later and look again.

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Thanks Mykol.

 

Actually, my feeling is that my seedlings are progressing much slower than the seedlings of other contestants.

 

I had posted somewhere in the thread of another Slex/GH Kush Tester something like:

"Funny how it seems that everyone else's grows seem so much faster and more lushious than one's own grow."

 

But if it is fact that my grow is slower, then I suspect I know possible reasons:

1.  In my Vegg set-up, I don't use fancy MH or HPS lamps, nor high-power LEDs.  I must be careful with power consumption.  Therefore, I use fluorescent tube lightinng (as recommended by Mr. Green in "I Grow Chronic" [can be found on YouTube]).  As explained by Mr. Green, the fluorescent tube is sufficient to maintain mother plants and to foster clones.  Obviously, if you wish a faster or more lushious Vegg room, then higher power lighting is necessary.  Or maybe one could set up two different Vegg rooms, one for mother-plant maintenance and clones, and the other Vegg room for aggressive vegging.  But I don't have that second Vegg room yet.  That is possibly a project to schedule for sometime in the future.

2.  I do stress my Girls a lot.  I do so because with the relatively sparce vegg lighting, my seedlings stretch a bit.  To try to reduce the stretch, I start LST very early.  This early LST helps to harden the stems, hopefully to stop the stretch and to strengthen the stem.

3.  I always mix my first batches of nutrients on the weak side.  This has been recommended to me very often in my Internet Research.  To make the mistake toward the strong side can be deadly for Baby seedlings.

4.  I also allow my plants to use each batch of nutrients for a bit longer time than recommended by the nutrient manufacturers.

5.  Also my ambient temperatures are usually a bit cooler than optimal for MJ.  Again, so that my energy bill is not outrageous, I allow the grow rooms to be at around 22-24°C, whereas I know that MJ likes it better at 26-28°C.  In the area of the lamps, it is possible that some plants experience more comfortable temperatures.

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Hi bro,

maybe to much water in the rockwool is the cause of slow growth

i can see no means of escape for any excess water, ofc i could be wrong

temps are not ideal but not to low, as for floresent lighting move

seedlings as close as possible to light as light from floresents

dont penatrate very far. you probably know this however if not

it may help you.

Good luck bro nice journal so far

PEACE

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Thanks Old head for the comments and suggestions.

 

The rockwool cubes do drain well; the bottom of each jogurt cup has 3 or 4 holes, and the clear plastic Containers that the jogurt cups sit in also have holes in their bottoms.  And the Growtray drains water away from the plants via grooves, into a hose that returns the water to the respective Reservoir.

Yes, agreed that the cubes look too wet, but that is because each time I take photos, I am also running the feeding cycle in order to check that the nozzles are not clogged.  With approx 6 hours between the first and second, and between the second and third feedings, and then approx 12 hours duration between the third feeding and the next day's first feeding, I feel certain that they drain well and get a little oxygen too.

Yes, I have dropped the lamps to just above the seedlings, but because I am using the same lamp to light the "Deer-forced clones", the lamp hangs very crooked.  I admit, not optimal.

I have learned to accept the lower lux and lumens.  But it is in the flower room where the power is.

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28 Nov 2015

OK, another update.  ALL the specimens being fed GreenHouse Powderfeed seem to be doing well.Image052.jpg

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And I am so stoked!  Finally, I have a survivor to stand in the GHK 4 AH cup.  Image058.jpg

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But it appears that Kaia Kush #2 AH may be losing its battle for life, possibly a result of stress from being unable to throw off its seedpod for so long.  But there is still green colour there, so I will let it go a few days to see if it can recover.

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Si amigo,

Mi configuracion es casi identica a la puesta a punto del Sr. Green como se puede ver en YouTube.  La excepcion, por supuesto, es las tiendas de campana.

 

Traducido a traves de Google Traductor, por lo que si se lee divertido, por favor reir en voz alta...

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30Nov2015

All the plants are struggling, it seems.  KK#2AH doesn't look healthy.  GHK#1PF and GHK#3PF look healthiest.  GHK#2AH looks OK, and GHK#4AH, after standing and opening its leaves is looking OK.  But I have a feeling that I should to go ahead and transfer them into their next larger cube real soon, so that the roots can get a bit more oxygen.  

I really don't trust my pH meter now.

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03Dec2015

25 days after germination, 5 of the seedlings small cubes are now inserted into the bigger cubes.  Had to be careful, the stems are still very delicate.  To Support the stems, I also filled around them with loose bits and pieces of Rockwool. 

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03Dec2015

The replacement seed for KK#2AH has cracked.  My camera battery was empty, but I was pressed for time, so I had to plant it without pictures of the root exiting the seedpod.  I took these pictures the next day.Image021.jpg

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I changed-out the Solutions:

The left Reservoir is the Advanced Hydroponics  14 Liters rainwater, 14ml Grow1, 7ml Bloom2, 7ml Micro3, 7ml Root Excellerator.  The left Reservoir Feeds the rear grow tray.

The right Reservoir is the Greenhouse Powderfeeding  14 Liters rainwater and 12 grams Shortflowering powder.  The right Reservoir Feeds the front grow tray.Image039.jpg

 

Temps and humidity good, so I leave them a few days.

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Hi canna.

What i would do right now is move hydro meter below lights so its near plants

for true readings of Temps and RH, only apply root booster and micro, they

dont need much nutrition at this stage, use syringe to suck out water and

flush nutes out after only water once a day.

Also i see 2 circulation fans, is there any ventilation because with out it that

is most certainly the problem.

Personal i think your grow will speed up in couple of days after.

Peace

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Hi Old Head,

Thanks for following my thread and for offering suggestions.   :thankyou:

 

The location of the Thermo/Hydrometer is ok.  Each of the circulation fans are aimed downward and across one each of the Fluorescent lamps, resulting in a very well distributed air-mass, cyclonic when the tent is closed.  Even at the lowest fan speed, the temps and rH are very homogenous, and the little babies wiggle just a bit from the slight turbulence.  (Later, as the height of the babies increases, the lamps must be raised.  And at some point, the circulating fans will be lowered to a position lower than the lamps.  Then, the fans will be able to direct a stronger airflow more directly onto the plants offering greater turbulence to strengthen the stems.  But that occurs later.)  

 

As to the the nutrient-change Suggestion:

I am trying to follow the manufacturers' recommendations fairly closely, in order to give an impartial comparison, and to document those results as honestly as possible.  Where I did vary away from the manufacturers' recommendations was that, in the first Batch of nutrients, I mixed the solutions at approximately half strength.

I also vary away from the manufacturers' recommendations in another way.  I use the Solutions for approximately double so long as recommended.  At this so young and small stage in the plants' lives, I figure that they cannot possibly be converting the nutrients into unusable salts so fast as to require a weekly exchange of the Solutions. 

 

I will admit however, that my monitoring of pH and EC leaves much to be desired.   :umnik:   That is something that should be considered when one compares my results with other hydroponic contestants' operations in this competition.  I still haven't calibrated my pH meter, and I haven't at all broken-out my EC-meter for this grow.  I have been using rainwater as my base-water, without recording the baseline EC-values.  (The rainwater was allowed to sit well-covered in ambient outdoor conditions for the entire summer[no mosquitos, no chemicals, allowing most heavier impurities to precipitate out].  Then just as freezing temps ensued, the rainwater was collected into clean plastic jugs and stored closed in the dark in indoor temperatures.)  One could call me lazy (or buzy).  But there are growers out there who grow without meters; many are successful.  In a way, my Journal shall also show the success or failure of that method.  I wish that I could have produced a broader test for the StrainHunters with tighter controls and CONTROL-GROUPS, but that requires more space and time, time being the most-valuable and least-available commodity.  (Of course, if StrainHunters would offer me a Laboratory Position, then I could dedicate myself 100% to the effort, but that's a different discussion.)

 

Additionally (because I am also quite thrifty), from time-to-time I siphon small portions from each Reservoir into my watercans to be used as a base for further mixing with my Bloom-Nutrients in order to feed the other soil-based plants that are in the Flowering Room.  By doing this, after 2 or 3 weeks I have virtually no waste of the Solutions in the Vegg/TEST-tent.  Just before mixing-up a new Batch of nutrient-solutions, I collect any remaining Solutions from the Reservoirs into another vessel for later 'thinning with rainwater' and using again to feed other soil-based plants, either in the Flowering room or back home or in the garden.

 

I hadn't thought of using a Syringe to suck out excess water.  That's an interesting idea, and I may give that technique a try sometime.  As for flushing the babies, in a way I have been doing that.  Every 2 or 3 days, I have been spraying a mist of distilled water onto the foliage, and then spraying the rockwool until the top surface is saturated to help drive away any undesirables.  Because I had worried about root development, I had also mixed-up a very thin Batch of Root-Juice[from Bio-Bizz], and poured that over each Rockwool cube a couple times (all specimens treated alike).  Each of the three daily timed feedings then replenishes the nutrients.

 

As to exhaust circulation:  Yes, that is also functioning.  I have a powerful in-line exhaust fan with carbon filtration constantly evacuating the Flowering room.  There is a 6-inch flexible hose connecting the Flowering room with the Vegg/TEST-tent.  As long as the Flowering room is sealed, then the Vegg/TEST-tent is well evacuated.  The Vegg/TEST-tent has in its walls, numerous air-inlet vents, some located high and some low.  I have adjusted those as appropriate in order to achieve the temperature and rH that is displayed on the meter.  Additionally, I regulate the temperature and rH of the warehouse in order to provide as constant and as comfortable an ambient environment as possible.

 

The development of the babies HAS begun to speed up with that latest Nutrient Mix.  And another reason for the plant improvement is that I have turned-on the nutrient-solution Aerators (Aquarium air-pumps).  These operate any time the lights turn on, and serve to saturate the nutrient-solutions with Oxygen, which the roots of MJ love.  I will post Pics again soon.

 

Peace to All  :smoke:

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Jose, as you can see in my Dates, my Pictures are sometimes posted a few days behind. 

 

Today, the Girls are looking a bit better with the exception now being KK1PF.  She is struggling with surviving the folded-leaf Syndrome (from not being able to toss her hat).  It is interesting; so far, 3 out of 3 Kaia Kushes have had that same trouble.  I have two more seeds in that pack.  Maybe someday later I will have a better "Germination and Stand" from a KaiaKush.

 

But for now, the battle is not yet lost.

 

Intermediate Status:

Of 3 KK's attempted so far, all germinated and couldn't throw off the hat.  One of those died after Standing.  The Second of those is now struggling to survive against folded-leaf, the third had help from me to remove the hat on 3rd day after Standing and is doing better than the other one.  So I have 2 KK's currently standing in early Vegg Stage.

Of the 6 GHK's attempted so far, all germinated.  One was a breach-Baby with no root and died.  Second germed directly in rockwool, but I think I let it stay too wet, and it died, possibly from early "Brown-root".  The remaining 4 are currently standing in early Vegg Stage.

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I see you were using these brown rock wool starter cylinders. a big mistake imo. I got a lot of stuff for free from a former gardener incl. a mat of those brown rock wool things, that fit well in bigger Grodan blocks. The results were terrible- i lost more seeds than I could actually use later on. From 13 commercial new seeds from trusted companies I got just 7 survivors. Hence my flowering tent had enough space for the 6 new plants. If you want to use rock wool take the cubes GRODAN 4cm by 4 cm. I put 6 seeds directly from the package in 6 GRODAn 4by4 blocks and all germinated within a few days. One was planted too deep; so I took it out and put it into an EZ Plug, where it survived as well. 100% ratio vs 50% with the brown ones is enough proof for me. You can adjust the opening easily with a sharp knife (I did that without problems).

Hope that helps . Not so sure if auto dripping is ideal for young seedlings. Just give a bit of water (feeding) on the bottom of the block, so the root has to follow the direction to the food. If you keep on driping the seedling gets lazy. You give them, what they want anyway; so no use in getting active and start stretching/developing a longer and more root(s)

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Bam-Bhole said:  "Not so sure if auto dripping is ideal for young seedlings."

 

Bam-Bhole,

You are correct.  I reviewed Mr. Green's Set-up, and I stand corrected.  When the seeds are first standing in their Initial small cubes, he did not use a dripper.  He started the dripper only after he transferred them to the bigger cubes.

Your further Logic regarding "causing the seed to seek its nutrients" seems correct as well.

 

Thank you for the correction.

 

However, I am happy with the brown cubes.  I have not detected that any problem has ever originated from the brown rockwool.  I am always careful to soak them and pH adjust them for a while before use.  To my knowledge, the rockwool that I use contains no added fire-retardant chemicals (which is what one should watch-out for when using industrial rockwool).

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