curling leaves

[WhiteRhino]

the leaves on my ladies has started curling it doesnt look that good

i have steady temp at 25 day 18-19 at night ph is right ec is 1.3 rh is around 50%

any ideas?

[Guest superbluehaze]

That is a micro nutrient problem(probably iron or clacium along with magnesium) cause by lock out. I would foliar spray the plants about twice a week with a 50% nutrient solution rich is micro elements, and flush the soil and let it dry out. You should see results in the new growth in a week or so.

happy growing,

john.

To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the

Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before making major changes.

1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. If it affects only the top of the plant

or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.

2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up

noticeably. >> Nitrogen(N) deficiency. If not, go to #3.

3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown),

but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. If not, go to #4.

4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of

the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. If not, keep reading.

5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn

yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorus(P)

deficiency. If not, go to #6.

6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Overfertilization

(especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite.

Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. If not, go to #7.

7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too

much N). If not, go to #8…

The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease;

9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not

completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning. If not, go to #10...

10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency. If not, go to #11.

11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots

may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. If not, #12.

12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency. If not, #13.

13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or

Boron ( deficiency. If not… You may just have a weak plant.

The Nutrients:

Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with

plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while

insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid

excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants

should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.

Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have

enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved

in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per

gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or

you'll lock up other nutrients.

Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking

soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not

be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and

possibly cold weather.

Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles

and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and

Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.

Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about

6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's

chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like

"iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.

Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.

Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually

from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients-lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become

available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.

Check Your Water - Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many

minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is

"hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water company for

an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the pollutants, carcinogens,

etc) for the tap water in your area. This is a common request, especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise

an eyebrow. Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units,

distillers, and de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly

useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it. They

run about $40 and up.

happy growing,

john

[WhiteRhino]

thansk for ur input guys .. ill use clean water and spray

[Guest superbluehaze]

You may be right Fuzzy, but over feeding and micro element deficiencies do look very much the same sometimes.

If the E.C has not been up lately, then it is a micro element problem, but what you have decided to do, white rhino will solve both problems.

good luck with it and let us know how it goes.

happy growing,

john

[WhiteRhino]

i will

[biggreenbuds]

i would personally check your stregth of your stem. pull it around a litle and see if its strong. there is a possibility this is root rot or stem rot.

[WhiteRhino]

well they are strong i excercise them everyday so....

[biggreenbuds]

still could be root rot. your plant could be super strong and live out rest of there lifes and flower and still have some roots rotting in there. im still looking around and reading. i think though they already have probly answered your question. i would flush them out good. let them dry out and then foliar with plain water. if you have a blockage then foliar feeding with more nutes can cause more damage. if you are going to foliar with nutes make sure you do it when you turn lights off.

[Guest superbluehaze]

Hi white rhino,

Sometimes in growing the simple answer is over looked;

I know your light is 50cm above the plants and that it is around 25c, at plant level.

Young seedlings, however, do not like intense light, and it is best to start them under a compact fluro for the first 3 weeks or so. I think your light is too intense for young seedlings. (800 watts of HId lighting is quite a bit for young sensitive plants).

I had another look, and besides doing what has been suggested, I would also raise the light another 10 to 20 cm, and leave it there for a week and see if there is any improvement.

My gut feeling is that this is the problem.

HIDs can easily fry sensitive seedlings - the light is to intense for them to handle, until they are older.

Raise the light and if there is any improvement, then lower it slowly over 10 days or so.

By all means flush and foliar feed(with lights out and put a drop or two of dish washing detergent in the spray, this stops the liquid just running off the leaves). Spay when it is around 20 C. Then the pores in the leaves are open, and especially spray underneath the leaves.

Raise your light to around 1 meter from the plants (or use one light only until they are older and larger)

and then slowly bring it down over a week to 10 days.

With sensitive seedlings, it is best to have the light at around 1 meter above them and each day bring it down a little, until the young plants can handle the intense light.

If the light is too intense, before the young plants are ready for it, then the plants display the same problems your plants are.

I hope this helps,

happy growing, john