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Home Made CO2 Production - How To Guide

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I use a very similar system. Couple differences are I use 2 5 gallon bucket and a drip system. I started with a bread yeast myself. I now use a champagne yeast I get from the home beer brewing supply store.

I use 12 cups of sugar 4 gallons of water and one packet( ! table spoon of dry activated yeast). You can pick this up at any grocery around here. I change the bucket out every 7 days. Each bucket gets changed out every other week.

I use 50 lbs of sugar for a 7 to 8 week bloom cycle. I only add the CO2 farms to my blooming gardens.

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Really appreciate difference using c02 homemade? I think that to be effective should be regulated, particles per million, correct and consistent (to avoid extractor). What do you think?

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I used the yeast bottle/canister method with good results.

 

5 x 10L ( approx 2.5 gallons ) bottles and hung them side by side to the HPS, so they stay warm and well above the plants, evenly distributed in the room.

 

If one does the gas burner or CO2 bottle he should make sure to get out alive. If the system fails you have less than a few minutes before collapse.

That's why I would not really do those systems. Yeast bottles wont kill you by accident, unless it falls on you :)

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Really appreciate difference using c02 homemade? I think that to be effective should be regulated, particles per million, correct and consistent (to avoid extractor). What do you think?

For sure it makes more sense if you can measure & regulate the CO2 concentration. While doing that, air extraction should be monitored too, desired value around 30°C and extraction should only happen when it exceeds 31°C. Same goes for humidity, the longer you keep the same air inside to save the precious CO2, the more water vapour and thus humidity will built up. So you either dehumidify the air to postpone extraction or extract at a given humidity value and replenish CO2 again to 1400-1500 ppm.

The thing is, when you dont extract 24/7 many problems arise that just havent been there before in that extend. Humidity might become the most expensive one to solve as it neds some kind of energy to extract the H2O out of the air, usually done with cooled metal surfaces, cooled by a TEC, that itself mustbe cooled.... quickly you end up building a chain of cool here = heat there = costs kW/h = money kinda thing.

The not-anymore extracted heat can be used to heat up the grow room to 30°C, if the HPS will heat it up even higher you either have to cool it by AC or extract air. First one needs kW/h ( see above ), second one needs CO2 to be replensihed after extraction of heat down to 29°C.

 

Both problems need to be addressed and cleverly solved as it will add to your "this is how much CO2 costs me every day".

I would say, the CO2 is the least expensive part when you consider the price for 1 kW/h and looking at the Data sticker on most AC's, like 2-3kW/h minimum, not foegetting you still have a humidity problem that maybe if lucky, the AC would solve too.

 

For this reason, I used the 10L yeast version and kept the extraction fan on 24/7, same as the blower fans and the bottles, which cant be stopped anyway, though they do slow down over night when temp drops to 16-18°C, naturally.

 

For sure the high end version is nice but you have to think about more than just the CO2 and its needed equipment, rather think of a full scale sensor role out, control for air IN and OUT, control for humidity +/-

and CO2 regulation by either gas or CO2 bottle and some kind of safety measures to make you get out alive, like when you open the door, the extraction fan ALWAYS goes full bore until closed again and safety button has been pushed OUTSIDE the door.

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Strain Hunters is a series of documentaries aimed at informing the general public about the quest for the preservation of the cannabis plant in the form of particularly vulnerable landraces originating in the poorest areas of the planet.

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