Red spider TO 35 DAY OF FLOWERING

[antonella]

Some of my plants are infested by the red spider mite, how can I treat them, as they are at 35 days of flowering?? give me a help!

[Dust]

come on, cannabis world cup room to ask a question like this? next time please pay a little atention to the room you creat your thread in. So i moved your thread to a better section.

For your spiders now I think you can use Pyrethrin to kill the red spider try to do a search on the forum we have many threads about it

Good luck!

[antonella]

brother I ask you a huge favor, I have a room of 200 square meters where I invested everything I had, money machine, work, hope everything all sweat, my plants are at the 45 th day of flowering and I realized that within the tops of many plants is mold, what can I do, I do (Previcur) by roots but do not know what to do! I ask you to turn this question to Franco who certainly will respond to you right away, I will have already written if you can tell him to answer me please!

[Dust]

you are sure it's mold? all you can do is as much air flow as you can, and if you can cut the infected part so it doesn't spread.

Hydrogen peroxyde is well known to clean mold when you make bath with it, but don't think you can do it on an alived plant, look on google and you'll find out ^^

Good luck

[Pi2]

Why are Spider Mite Attacks so Devastating?

An indoor garden can be paradise for all types of plant pests because of the lack of natural controls and predatory bugs (unless these are introduced by the grower). But spider mites are particularly vicious and can cause severe injury to your plants in a very short time. So what do they actually do?

A healthy plant regulates its water retention and transpiration through its leaves. A leaf contains a vast array of stomata that open and close like valves according to environmental conditions, allowing water to escape or to be retained. This moisture regulation is absolutely vital to a plant’s health. When the stomata are closed, the surface of a leaf is highly resistant to water loss. This is part of your plant’s life-support system. And guess what? Spider mites completely screw it up!

Leaves that have been attacked by spider mites are usually dry, brittle and discolored. Even a minor spider mite infestation can have a significant impact on a plant's productivity.

Spider mites feed by piercing the leaf surface and extracting leaf cells and fluid. What was once the plant’s protective, waterproof casing quickly becomes punctured with thousands of tiny holes. Your plants sense they are losing too much moisture all of a sudden and close their stomata – but it’s no use as the moisture is still being lost through the holes made by those evil critters! The injured leaves continue to become dehydrated and lose significantly more water. The effect snowballs as the plant’s ability to photosynthesize and repair itself diminishes through sustained attack. Leaves die and fall off. The plant becomes weaker and weaker until it eventually gives up the ghost. Major infestations show up quickly given the right conditions. Plants that looked healthy two days ago can suddenly be covered in fine spider webs.

And then it gets worse. The moisture stress caused by spider mite feeding actually makes the leaves taste better to the mites! Stressed leaves are sweeter and contain higher levels of soluble nitrogen. Both sugar and nitrogen are favorite delicacies on the spider mite menu.

A Tiny Mo Foe

Novice growers are continually astounded that something so small can wreak such a huge amount of havoc. Yes, spider mites are small. Really, really small. The female is only 1/50 of an inch long and the male is even smaller. They are mere specks when seen crawling on the undersurface of leaves. The adult has eight legs and is usually pale green or amber / yellow. Under a microscope they appear to have two (occasionally four) black spots. Young mites are six-legged. After two periods of molting and resting, they become adults and have eight legs. Generations may be completed in 5 to 40 days. If you don’t own a jeweler’s loupe, you should consider buying one. They are fairly inexpensive.

Spider mites are so tiny that they can float in on a breeze! They can therefore easily migrate from other plants that you may have in your house to your indoor garden. Mites will go dormant, even when pregnant. They will hitch a ride on your shoes and clothes and on your Rottweiller. Savvy growers cover all air intakes with a bug screen. Often you can buy these at your local indoor gardening store, or you can fashion one yourself with an ultra-fine mesh silkscreen or stainless steel screen. Just make sure it is 180 microns or less.

Tech Tip

Before you go cover all your intake and exhausts with 180-micron stainless steel screen, know that the screen is only 33% open area and so generates a great deal of air resistance. If you don’t take this into account you will cut down your CFMs of airflow and up the static pressure of your room’s air handling system(s). In order to get to what is called (Net Free Air) or (CFMs corrected for louver / screen / etc impingement) air flow you need to oversize the penetration / duct, so do the math. I usually like to oversize and go four times bigger than the ductwork for the 180-micron screened vent penetration.

Prevention, Control and Cure

“So how do I get rid of spider mites?” – this question is asked time and time again and the answer is an issue of hot debate and contention among indoor gardeners. There are so many different approaches and philosophies when it comes to pest management, with some growers invariably being willing to resort to more extreme measures than others.

Obviously, as with all pests, prevention is better than cure. But tell that to somebody who’s just discovered an infestation and this little gem of wisdom is not likely to be greeted very philosophically. The choice of product you use also depends on where your plants are in terms of their lifecycle. One product that is good for vegetative plants may not be advisable to use if your plants are heavily flowering. If you are a couple weeks away from harvest, even if you have the serious infestation and have the web thing going on, knock the bugs down with cold water and finish the crop. Some studies have even shown increased yields with moderate levels of insect stress.

Know Thine Enemy

• Spider mites thrive in hot, dry conditions. Cooler, more humid conditions slow reproductive rates considerably.
  
• Outdoors, spider mites are active in the spring and go dormant over winter. The risk of spider mites is always greater if you live in a region that does not freeze during the winter.
  

Do the Rest of Us a Favor

Before you go running to your grow store with your spider mite woes, remember to change your clothes and shoes. Grow stores often have problems with spider mites and other insect problems due to customers dragging them in on their shoes and clothes.

Bombs Away

Many growers who are not using predator mites use a total release fogger (aka ‘bomb’) to treat a spider mite infestation in an indoor garden. These products release an insecticide ‘fog’ using an aerosol propellant. If you are going to bomb your indoor garden, you may want to consider moving your houseplants into the room and bombing them too.

The active ingredient of a total release fogger is Pyrethrum. Pyrethrum will kill adult mites but it will not kill the eggs. The gestation period of spider mites is temperature and humidity dependant, but most growers deploy a strategy of setting off multiple bombs three to five days apart. This will usually kill the adults and then the juvenile mites before they have had a chance to reproduce. I advise growers to go for three or four consecutive bombings depending on how close you are to harvest and how angry you are.

Another important thing to consider is all Pyrethrums are not equal. Natural Pyrethrum bombs are made from Chrysanthemum plants; they are suitable for food crops. Synthetic Pyrethrums are not suitable for food crop production. Read the fine print on the label and FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. UV (Ultraviolet) light reduces the insecticidal qualities of pyrethrum (most manufactures say in 14 days). However, if you are using High Pressure Sodium (HPS) lamps these put out virtually no UV light anyway.

Remember, the bomb’s propellant will harm your plants if you do not position it correctly. Do not push the plunger of a bomb and set it in front of an oscillating fan, which is going to blow the propellant all over your plants. Before you set the bomb off, shut off your grow-lights and fans, place a small piece of cardboard under the bomb, hold your breath, hit the button, run out of the room and go for some drinks. It is safe to come back in a couple hours to turn the fans on.

I tend to set off bombs as a preventative measure, when I flip (clean) the room in between crop cycles or … just if I feel like mites may be a threat.

CAUTION: Systemic Pesticides and Consumable Crops

If you are growing crops that you intend to consume, make sure that your pesticide is designed to be used for human consumption. Some systemic and residual pesticides (such as Floramite™ and Avid™) are not designed for food crops. Yes, they will kill mites and spider mites’ eggs, but the insecticide remains inside the crop; Avid™ is systemic which means it stays in the system of the plant and does not go away after time.

Mother Nature’s Controls

You can ask your grow store to purchase predatory bugs for you. Since they are live bugs most stores will require you to pre pay so they don’t get stuck with dead bugs if you forget show up in a couple days.

Ladybugs will eat spider mites if there are no other insect treats around (such as aphids); if you drop several thousand ladybugs in your garden they will eat everything, including each other. I have seen desperate growers that have gone this route. The aftermath of this is dead ladybugs everywhere.

Mighty Last Words

The best overall advice I can offer is that healthy plants will repel insect attacks. I’m pleased to report that I’ve experienced no spider mite infestations in over a year, and that was on an ornamental banana tree. Treat your plants right and they’ll do the preventative work for you.

Biological Control:

TARGET: Spider Mites

AGENT: Spider Mite Preds

SPECIAL SKILL: Enjoys high humidity, breeds faster than spider mites.

WEAPON ID: The three main spider mite preds are: Mesoseiulus longipes, Neoseiulus californicus, and Phytoseiulus persimilis. These are available as a triple-pack from some suppliers. Highly recommended.

BRIEF: Spider mite predators are small mites that eat only Spider Mites. They not only feed on spider mites and their eggs, they also breed twice as fast! Each spider mite predator sucks the juice out of about five spider mites a day, or twenty of their eggs. Different species of spider mite predators have their own preferred temperature and humidity. If you use a mix then each type will seek out their preferred “zones” in the plant structure. Predator mites do best with warm temperatures and high humidity. The more moisture in the air the better. (Spider mites hate high humidity.) They move quicker and reproduce faster than the spider mites. For best results apply one predator for every five spider mites, so you best catch that infestation early or deploy them as a precautionary measure.

Need extra reinforcements? Try Stethorus Punctillum. These specialist spider mite destroyers are actually tiny ladybugs which can eat more than 40 mites per day as adults. They eat spider mites at all stages and can find new infestations on their own by flying. Adult female spider mite destroyers lay up to 15 eggs per day. Just 100 spider mite destroyers are enough to start up a colony to protect an average home greenhouse.

no-pest strips..12 hrs in the dark period with ventilation off...3 days later repeat...when lights come on take the no pest strips out and turn on ventilation..they will eliminate your mite problem in 24 hrs...12 hrs one day 12 hrs 3 days after the first time...if you choose not to use the no pest strip...when the plant is dead the mites will leave the web wont though....mites also hate humidity as they breath through there ecoskeleton....when used properly no pest is the fastest...i dont like using late in flower but i would if i had an infestation...this is another reason why i inspect my plants every day multiple times per day...

2.

There was a thread in this section about spraying your plants with a mixture of baking soda,vinegar,lemon juice and soap that worked very well on my spider mite infestation. After spraying solution and waiting 15 minutes I took the plants into the kitchen sink and rinsed them with the sink sprayer. Worked well,my plants were in veg,but as long as they dry out I don't see why it wouldn't work in flower. And you're rinsing the little bastards out.

Spiders love dry and warm....so...wet and cold and high humidity will kick out the spiders.

www.icmag.com

[antonella]

The appearance of mold it is, with the classic dusty beard! But I have also managers that I noticed small flies (equal to the flies but small bike) hidden in rock wool, and the leaves of the tops are speckled first then curl up and wither, and their base is out of this mold!

WHAT DO YOU SAY CAN I BRING A C02 10000ppm IN THE ROOM TO KILL THESE INSECTS? YOU BELIEVE THAT LIGHT 'OF EVIL TO PLANTS AS'? OR CAN I USE THE SPRAY TYPE DDT Bayer?? (you may ask Franco to answer, at least for this time??)

[Dust]

he won't have time to pass by i don't think they are very very busy lately with the news ssedbank and travelling a lot sory.

For the CO2 yes it works but if you really have 200 plants it will take a looot of CO2 to fill that. Spray is safiest if you are far from harvesting it's pretty safe

[Pi2]

Spray it....few days wash them..then spray again...

[antonella]

I swear to you that it is a shame to see my plants so ', I will send' photos so 'you will realize what I am' talking, I use 600w per meter and use rock wool, do a wash every 10-14 days and my grow is divided into two rooms very very big! Last year I came to 700gm meters to be clear, I'll let 'see photos friends and I assure you that you will be dumbfounded, almost 15 hours a day in my garden, and I struggled a lot to be able to build now hope to solve the problem.

VI THANKS A LOT AND I ASK YOU IN RESOLVING THIS PROBLEM follow.

I BELIEVE that I will 'A LA CO2 10000ppm, NOW THAT I HAVE NOT INSURED THAT WILL' TO MALE PLANTS!

AND I HAVE MOLD ON 2 IN COOLING MODE '(DRY) IF YOU OKAY? I HAVE INCREASED THE NUMBER OF FANS 11 IN THE ROOM, AND I HAVE THEM DIRECT PLANTS!

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU MANY TRUE HEART OF BROTHERS, Hope to be INCONRARE IN PERSON ONE DAY!?

Undo edits

Alpha

[Pi2]

Good Luck!

inconrare on HTCC 2013 !

Best Luck!

[F.V.K]

if you got actuall mold on them then toss them. that is thrughout the whole plant and can make people ill. if its white fuzz then it isnt mold...its powdery mildew and is diff disease. yu dont treat or cure mold...boytritus

my advice would be use a sulpur burner...will deal with pm and mites in 1 and in my exp lasts the best and works the best. most sprays for pm are just sulphur diluted down in water anyways. for mites if over uk side of pond then use plant vitality plus. cant get it in north america. lots of products over here to choose from for the mites.